The Trundler’s Day in El Cabanyal and Canyamelar
As British Airways launches a direct flight to Valencia on 6th November, The Trundler reveals her favourite spots in the fascinating neighbourhood of El Cabanyal/Canyamelar, where she has made her home. This seaside district is the true highlight of Spain’s third largest city and exploring its beautiful streets is essential.
Start the day with a perfect cup of coffee at Hermanos Haro on Carrer Colombrets. Every morning at 8am, the friendly brothers and their feisty mother spy The Trundler ambling down the passage way towards them and are already making her first shot of caffeine as she walks in the door.
At this lively neighbourhood café, the welcome is without ceremony but warm. No fake bonhomie at H.H. Just gigantic sandwiches filled with tortilla, bacon, tomatoes and morcilla and a great Café Americano for the price of one euro.
Mercado el Cabanyal
How lucky to be able to shop in a real food market, two minutes from your front door. The Trundler loves to wander the aisles of Mercado Del Cabanyal admiring the vibrant colours of the fruit and vegetable stalls and the artfully arranged fish. Alongside the tragic rabbits and the cheery pigs’ heads, there’s a tantalising selection of olives, cheeses, hams, dried fish, bread and highly sugary cakes on offer, every day but Sunday. The noisy café sells delicious and substantial tapas such as habas y jamon and salted cod with peppers, strong coffee, fresh orange juice and shots of brandy for anyone needing extra help with their shopping
The Beauty of the Beach
How marvellous to live so close to the sea and 2kms of pale yellow sand, flanked by a palm-lined promenade.
Swim, sunbathe or hang out in one of the many cafes and restaurants found along the seafront. Walk as far as Patacona for smoothies and sumptuous pies and cakes at La Mas Bonita bar/restaurant.
Walk the streets of this former fishermens’ quarter to see the most exquisite houses, whose facades are covered with astonishing ceramic tiles. Gasp and gawp as you glide along stately Calle de la Reina and loop the streets as far as Calle Rosario to see these little gems, each as lovely as the last.
Friendly Neighbourhood Vendors
One of the greatest joy’s of living in Spain is being able to buy fabulous fresh fruit and vegetables every day. Persimmons like shiny baubles, tomatoes bursting with colour and flavour, huge slabs of watermelon, mounds of avocadoes, mountains of grapes and pomegranates. And how delightful to be able to shop locally and buy your vitamin c supplies from friendly shops, like this one.
This recently opened fish tapas bar on Calle de La Reina specialises in everything fresh from the sea served with panache amidst an air of friendly chaos.
Fried anchovies and mounds of mussels are dished up alongside Titaina, a delicious concoction made from tuna, peppers, tomatoes and pinenuts.
Sister bars La Paca and La Peseta are famed for their vegetarian tapas and magnificent tortillas.
Ca la Mar
This delightful, friendly bar/café is where The Trundler goes to learn Spanish, drink Café del Tiempo and scoff top notch crisps. It’s a bright and breezy corner watering hole on Just y Villar serving Valencian dishes and wines as well as Turia beer, named after the river that once ran through the city before beautiful gardens were made in its place.
Casa Montana is a local legend and a beacon for tourists and locals looking for quality tapas made from fresh, carefully sourced ingredients.
The service is slick, the staff are all superb and the tile clad interior is as lovely as it was back in 1836 when the bodega first opened, selling wine by the jug to the people of the neighbourhood.
The Sorolla Mosaic
The Trundler is in love with the paintings of Joaquin Sorolla, who depicted the sheer joy of life by the sea and on the beach right here in the Poblats Maritim.
A mosaic echoing one of his most famous works ‘Afternoon Sun’ (1903) which showed the bulls bringing the fishing boats back to shore, is on the Carrer Mediteraneo, the main route to the seafront.
Solea Language School
The Trundler is eternally grateful to Inez and Maria, the excellent language teachers who taught her Spanish and made her feel so welcome in her new home. If you’re considering learning Spanish in Valencia, there is nowhere better.